How to Fix Brassy and Orange Tones in Coloured Hair
Brassiness is what happens when the cool pigments in coloured hair fade faster than the warm ones sitting underneath. It is not damage and it is not a mistake — it is simply the order in which pigment washes out. Every colour-treated head gets there eventually, and it is straightforward to correct once you know which tone you are actually fighting.
Why coloured hair turns brassy
Cool-toned pigments are smaller molecules and rinse out of the hair shaft first. What is left behind is the hair’s underlying warmth — orange in dark hair, yellow in light hair. Hard water, chlorine, UV exposure and hot showers all speed the process up, which is why brassiness often appears faster in summer than in winter.
Blue or purple? This is the part most people get wrong
Purple cancels yellow, so purple shampoo is for blonde and light hair. Blue cancels orange, so blue shampoo is for brown and dark blonde hair. Using a purple formula on brassy brown hair does very little, which is why so many people conclude toning shampoos do not work. Match the pigment to the tone you are seeing, not to the colour you had done.
How to use a toning shampoo without going lilac
Toning shampoos deposit pigment, and pigment builds with every wash. Start with once a week, leave it on for two to three minutes rather than the ten some people recommend, and rinse thoroughly. Overuse on light blonde is what produces a grey or lilac cast. If your hair does pick up too much tone, a normal shampoo or two will lift most of it back out.
What else keeps tone in longer
- Wash less frequently, and with cooler water — heat opens the cuticle and releases pigment.
- Skip clarifying shampoo between colours; it strips deposited tone quickly.
- Rinse with fresh water immediately after swimming, before chlorine or salt has time to sit.
- Consider a shower filter if you are on hard water and find colour fading unusually fast.
Where to start
Browse the full hair care range, or head straight to hair essentials for shampoos, conditioners and treatments. If you colour at home, the hair colour range sits naturally alongside a toning routine.
